Viking Knit Part 3 – Wire
Today the topic is the viking knit wire you'll be using. There are all kinds and gauges to choose from, and here's some information to help you choose best.
You've probably seen part 1 and part 2 of my viking knit series; if not, you may want to take a look when you're done with this post.
Kinds of Wire
Wire Types (Click to Enlarge)
Unless you have money to burn (or are just super-coordinated), I highly suggest that you start learning to make viking knit chain using either copper or artistic wire (which is basically a coated copper wire). Both are inexpensive and readily available. (In a pinch when I run out, I hop on over to my local hardware store for some copper wire.)
You can also try brass wire, but it seems to harden up faster than copper does, making it more difficult to work. But it does give you a gold color without using gold-filled wire.
Fine silver, sterling, argentium and gold-filled wire are glorious but they are expensive to start out with, due to the amount of wire you will use. Once you are confident of your skill, though, then try your wings with wires other than copper or artistic!
Wire Shapes
When you go to buy your wire, you may be confronted with a choice of wire shapes. The three most common are round, half round and square.
You'll want to use round wire with your viking knit. Half round and square would be much too frustrating to use when you are learning. Half round might be interesting to experiment with, though, once you can do viking knit in your sleep. 
I don't know that I would try square, though, even as an experiment.
Besides, round wire is the least expensive to purchase; the price goes up for any other shape.
Wire Gauges
Wire gauge refers to the thickness of the wire itself. The most important thing to know is this: the higher the number, the thinner the wire! (I know, it seems backwards, but that's the way it is.)
The two most popular viking knit gauges are 24 g and 26 g. And while you can use any gauge to your heart's content, keep the following in mind. If you go larger to 22 g, the wire will work harden faster (or at least be harder to work because it's thicker and stiffer). And if you go smaller with 28 g, you'll be having a very narrow chain indeed.
Wire Hardness
When buying wire, you may or may not see a reference to the wire being hard, half-hard or soft. You will want to go with soft wire. Why? Because the act of making the viking knit chain will "work harden" the wire, making it stiffer. And while you might could go half-hard with 26 or 28 g wire (since it's so small in diameter to begin with), if you do, you'll need to work with shorter lengths of wire.
Other Gauges for Viking Knit Jewelry
To finish your viking knit jewelry, you will need a small amount of a 20g or 18g wire. This will be for finishing the ends and making a clasp (unless of course you plan to use a ready-made clasp). I personally like 18g for clasps, since it is harder and stronger than 20g. But there are plenty of people who successfully use 20g, so the choice is yours.
How Much Wire -- Lengths
Starting out, you'll use quite a bit of wire trying to get a handle on the viking knit, which is why I suggest an inexpensive wire in the beginning. But how much wire is needed for a viking knit jewelry project?
Here's an estimate you can use: 1 troy ounce of 24g sterling wire (48 feet) will make roughly an 18" (after being drawn) double-knit chain. At the time I am writing this, the lowest price I've found for sterling wire is about $20 an ounce.
Like I said, this is just an estimate; your chain may vary somewhat. And if you use a single knit instead of a double knit, you can just about double that finished chain length.
And of course, the gauge of your wire makes a difference as well. That's why I suggest making a chain library before you start on your jewelry projects. You'll have a better handle on what you need, as to length of wire.
One more thing -- how much working length of wire should you use for a session? I tend to like using 6 feet of wire at a time. If you're not familiar with using wire, you may want to go shorter, with 3' lengths to start. But I know other people who like to use 10 feet at a time. Ultimately, use the working length most comfortable for you!
About Your Eyes
If you're of a certain age, you'll need reading glasses to work your viking knit. If you don't need reading glasses to see the chain stitches, then wear safety glasses. Wire can whip around, and you do not want it to strike your eyes!
Now that I've covered wires, I'll next discuss the relationship of dowels, petals and wire gauge for your viking knit jewelry project.
While you can go out to your local hardware store and/or beading or craft store for your wire, if you don't have any of these kinds of stores nearby, here are some copper and art wire available on ebay.
Til next time!
 |
 25Ft Round 24 Gauge DS Copper Jewelry Wire 24 GA  US $5.50
|
 ARTISTIC CRAFT WIRE COPPER PERMANENT BLACK COLOR 24 GA US $4.25
|
 ROSE GOLD Copper Wire for Beadcraft 24 Gauge 20 metre US $2.99
|
 75 Foot Spool 20AWG Enamel Insulated Copper Wire 24 838 US $6.99
|
 zebra wire silver gold copper 30 28 26 24 22 18 guage US $9.87
|
|
 VINTAJ BRASS BRONZE COLORED COPPER WIRE 26 GAUGE 200 FT US $12.99
|
 TARNISH RESISTANT GOLD COLOR COPPER WIRE 26 GA 34 YD US $4.99
|
 20YARD 26 GAUGE SILVER PLATED COPPER WIRE BEAD WRAPPING US $1.99
|
 Beadsmith 26 Gauge Wire 34 Yd 31M Non Tarnish COPPER US $3.95
|
zebra wire silver gold copper 30 28 26 24 22 18 guage US $9.87
|
Viking Knit Jewelry Part 2 – Draw Plate
Welcome back to part 2 of my series on creating viking knit jewelry. In the last post you saw the YouTube video that I used to start learning the process. Today I'll talk about the draw plate.
Just as a background, I tried viking knit for the first time about 3 years ago. Tried and failed. Then I thought I'd give it another go around a year ago. Still no joy. But for whatever reason, when I tried it again a little while ago -- success! I like to think that this time it was looking at a combination of three different ways of actually doing the knit.
Viking Knit Instructions
I mentioned that there was a viking knit instructions YouTube video in my last post on creating viking knit jewelry. It got me started, but I still needed some help in understanding it.
My next stop was this free online tutorial. It helped more, but I still felt like I was missing something. Especially things like how do I correct my mistakes and how to finish the chain. So I went in search of more assistance.
I ended up purchasing (for $10) a .pdf tutorial on viking knit instructions from Jan Raven. That tutorial was the missing piece of the puzzle for me.
Then once I had shown some of my viking knit work, I had others asking me to write a viking knit instructions tutorial of my own! I was certainly honored, and so I now have a viking knit tutorial available.
Now on to one of your most important tools -- the draw plate.
What is a Draw Plate?
Draw Plate for Viking Knit (Click to Enlarge)
The one thing that you need to know is that what your viking knit looks like coming off the dowel or allen wrench is not what it will ultimately look like. And to help you get there from here, you need a draw plate.
A draw plate is basically a piece of wood that has holes of various diameters drilled into it. Once you've got your work to the length you need, take it off the dowel/wrench. Then you can start drawing your chain through the holes, and it will condense your chain, smooth out the work and generally make the viking knit look more finished.
First Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Where to get a draw plate? I originally got mine at a bead shop several years ago; if you have a bead shop nearby, try there. I've not been able to find a good source online, however. But there is a quick and inexpensive way to get a draw plate if you (or someone you know) has a drill and a good selection of drill bits.
Something you need to know: do not get a jeweler's draw plate, which is made of metal. The holes in a jeweler's draw plate are way too small for using with viking knit.
Second Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
You can usually find a viking knit draw plate available in my store for $11 (which also includes dowels).
How Long to Make Your Chain?
Fourth Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Another thing you need to know is that the act of pulling the viking knit chain through the draw plate not only makes the chain thinner, but also longer. How much longer depends on the gauge of wire, size of the dowel, number of "petals" and if you are doing a single knit or a double knit. Oh, and also how thin you choose to draw your viking knit chain!
The chain you see me making is 24 gauge copper wire, on a 1/4" metal dowel, with 5 "petals" in a single knit. I make my chain roughly 2/3 of the final length I want; the extra 1/3 of the length comes in the drawing down process.
When I started, I created a few sample chains of various gauges and number of petals. I tagged the chains with the following information:
- Wire gauge and type (copper, silver, artistic, etc.)
- Number of petals
- Size of dowel
- Length before drawing through the draw plate
- Length after drawing through the draw plate, and the smallest size hole used.
- Knit type (single or double)
Viking Knit Before and After Draw Plate (Click to Enlarge)
This gives me a small "library" of chains, so I can select my look ahead of time and be sure of the outcome.
I highly recommend creating your own little "library" in the beginning. You'll be practicing your technique, gaining skill before you start on your first real viking knit jewelry project. My sample chains are usually around 3" before drawing through the draw plate.
Whew! Hopefully you have enough information on draw plates for viking knit to know why it is an important tool. And that you know what you're looking for when buying one ready-made, or how to make one of your own.
The next post will be on argueably the most important part of making your viking knit chain -- the wire you will use.
Viking Knit Jewelry
Viking knit jewelry is really cool. And up to a few days ago, it totally baffled me. Then two things happened; I found a YouTube video and I bought a tutorial. Between the two, I can now do viking knit! And is it ever addicting...
Directions for Viking Knit Chain
The best video I found out on YouTube certainly helped a great deal; for you, it may be all you need! So below are the video directions for viking knit chain. And then below the video is more information and photos of what viking knit looks like from the raw chain through the finished viking knit jewelry.
So YouTube first, then after you're done watching, check out my "before" photos. Here you go!
In addition, here is more information and links to other viking knit resources.
Still need more? Check out my new Introduction to Viking Knit chain tutorial!
Viking Knit Jewelry - Before
Viking Knit Wire Supplies
OK, first know that the viking knit, as it comes off the wrench or dowel, looks kinda sad (at least to me). It definitely does not resemble the gorgeous jewelry I've seen! But there's a little magic involved that takes maybe a minute and results in a lovely chain.
But first, here's what you need to start out:
- 24 gauge wire
- 18 gauge wire
- Dowel (I use 3/16"). Some people use an allen wrench instead.
- Wire cutters
- Pliers (round nose and bent nose)
- Drawplate
While I don't use it, some people also use a T-pin to create a small path for the wire if the tension gets a little too tight.
In the first photo you see dowels, work in progress and the wire (I also have 16 g wire in the photo, although I didn't use it).
Viking Knit Other Supplies (Pliers, Drawplate, etc.)
In the next photo you can see the wire before I used the drawplate...along with the drawplate and pliers. I added the ruler so you can get an idea of how long the wire was (roughly 15 inches).
The raw knit is reminiscent of wire crochet (well, that's what it looks like to me, anyway).
The viking knit stitch I use is called single knit. Many people prefer to use the variation called double knit, as it makes a more dense weave.
Well, the next post will be more photos taken along the way while creating the jewelry; specifically about the draw plate tool.
Meanwhile, I'll leave you with some Pandora beads, since I will be using them in the finished viking knit jewelry.
|
 DFJ Lampwork Bead Smiling Ghosts Party Troll Pandora US $28.00
|
 Emmibeads fits pandora biagi lampwork glass bead SRA US $9.99
|
 OCEAN SPARKLE fits biagi pandora lampwork glass bead MW US $67.99
|
 IVORY DOTS fit trollbead pandora lampwork glass bead MW US $16.50
|
 PUMPKIN JUICE fits biagi pandora lampwork glass bead MW US $19.51
|
More Pandora-Style Lampwork Beads
Yep, more Pandora-style lampwork bead information and photos! This time, created with my own two hands. Along with glass and a torch and...you get the idea!
If you're not up to speed on what exactly Pandora beads are, take a look at my lampwork Pandora bead post -- it will give you the "hole" story!
Unique Lampwork Pandora-Style Beads
Pandora-Style Kitty Bead
I've been working on some new ideas, to make some of these wonderful beads different from the beads sold on the official Pandora site. Not that they aren't nice, but they are a bit on the plain side (which can of course be good at times).
Meanwhile, I decided to go in a totally opposite direction, and my cats were my inspiration!
The kitty bead you see on the right is rather small, at just 15mm tall, but it plays well on a Pandora (Biagi, Chamilla, Troll) bracelet. Enough to stand out from the everyday, without overwhelming the bracelet.
You may notice that the bead isn't silver lined. Some of my kitties I left "au naturale" and some I did line with sterling rivets. Thought it might be nice to have a choice.
OK, that's one kitty; are you up for another?
Seal Point Cat Pandora Style Bead
Here's what I call my "Kyle Kitty", after a seal-point Ragdoll cat that I once had. And you might notice that I did put the sterling silver rivets in my "Kyle Kitty".
Right now I'm trying to figure out the color I need to use for my "Rusty" cat bead. Rusty is my orange tabby, and finding just the right color in glass has been daunting! But I'll figure it out eventually.
And if you're wondering...yep, I will eventually make pint-sized dogs and bunnies and other assorted critters into my Pandora-style beads.
A More Traditional Pandora-Style Bead
Still, I haven't abandoned a more traditional bead, like the one you see to your right. After all, sometimes a gal just wants to be a little more traditional -- in shape, if not in color!
At any rate, feel free to mosey on over to my store site and see all the Pandora-style bead goodies I have to offer. Along with other kinds of lampwork beads as well. And in the meantime, I hope you've enjoyed the picture show!
