Posts Tagged ‘viking knit chain’
Colored Wire for Viking Knit
I recently had someone ask me if there was a good colored wire that could be used for viking knit jewely. You know, a colored wire that would survive repeated travels through a draw plate, and not look all mottled because the color flaked/rubbed off. Guess what -- I found one!
I've tried several brands, with varying results. One thing I quickly learned was not to use one that was plated. I'm talking about the wires that are bright and colorful and shiny -- beautiful on the spool, but starts degrading when you're working it. (Let alone try to put it through the draw plate.)
Before today, my standard wires were red brass (resembles 18 kt gold) and copper, because of the coating issue. I was able to get some wire from the local Joann store which was fairly decent, as long as you only sent it through the drawplate twice. It's manufactured by a company called Darice.
A New Kid in Town
A few months ago I had heard about a brand called Zebra Wire, but only recently did I get some to try it out. And am I ever happy I did (and sorry I waited so long)!
To the above right are two samples I made, using 26 gauge Zebra Wire in magenta. I did two double-knit chains, and passed them through the draw plate relentlessly. Well, maybe not relentlessly, but the top chain was sent through 6 different holes on the draw plate, and it came through beautifully!
The bottom chain was drawn down less, only 4 times. It had more petals, and I didn't want to have the chain any narrower anyway.
Still, as you can see from these extreme close-up photos, the color stayed on the wire! (Any white-ish color you may see is just light reflection.)
That was the good news. The bad news is that it only comes in about 8 colors (although they are very nice) and it's really hard to find! I've only found 2 places where I've been able to get it -- Fire Mountain and .
(If there's anyone out there who knows of another source for this great wire, please pass it along.)
I got my first spool from Fire Mountain, but I have recently ordered some from ebay as well (gotta love free shipping).
I also bought some on ebay. I don't know how it will stand up to the drawplate, but it does come in a slightly wider range of colors, so I'll give it a try. Well, when it gets here at any rate!
What’s Up With Jewelry?
I got to thinking about what's up with jewelry the other day. We've run into some chilly weather and it's too soon to start the veggie garden. Time for jewelry, perhaps?
The Curse of the Peyote
I should say organic peyote, because regular peyote is pretty easy to teach. After I finished up my viking knit tutorial, I decided to start on one for free-form organically-designed peyote. But here's the problem; how can I teach something that I do on a whim? And how do I provide a pattern for something really free-form?
So I've been trying to come up with some patterns that are free-form enough to get you started, along with one that falls into the "Wow, where did you get that!" category.
I'm thinking about a pair of earrings (basic freeform), a pendant (a little more challenging) and then a knock-em-out bracelet.
Stay tuned -- I'm still working on it!
Another Jewelry Auction Site
I came across another jewelry auction site that looked rather interesting. And while they don't have a ton of hand-made jewelry, they do have some nice pieces with precious gems -- amethyst, opal, etc.
Anyway, right now they have a $25 coupon -- $25 off your first purchase. And yes, there are plenty of items for $40 and under, so you stand a chance of getting something really nice for a great price (the word "free" comes to mind). So, go on and check it out and get your $25 off coupon.
Viking Knit In Sterling
I made a really pretty necklace in sterling silver for a gift and darn -- I forgot to get a photo before I sent it off! I'll see if the recipient will be so kind as to take a photo and send it on to me.
I made it with 24 g sterling wire, dead soft. Ohhh, was it ever nice to work with! Dead soft copper is pretty decent but the silver was even easier to work with. At any rate, I made it in a single knit, using 6 petals. It ended up substantial, but still had a bit of a lacy look to it -- very nice, if I do say so myself.
Of course I made the end caps, from 18 g sterling. I went rummaging around and found some sterling beads, around 12mm that had been sitting around for a few years.
I finished with an S-hook clasp I made from 18 g sterling. I made it a little fancier by wrapping it with 26 g sterling wire. Had to end up using my hammer a little to harden it up some, but it was stiff enough to be safe.
Unfortunately, I don't think I have enough sterling left over to make myself a necklace. Unless maybe I use some of my lampwork to add to the length some. Hmmm -- maybe it's time to fire up the torch again!
Viking Knit Chain Photos
I know it's been longer than I had planned, to get you these viking knit chain photos, but I've finally had a chance to sit down and catalog what I had, and what you might like to see.
Viking Knit Bracelet (Click to Enlarge)
First off, I've been making mostly bracelets, along with some necklaces. So far, no earrings (that's my next project). This first bracelet looks rather plain at first glance. But when you hold it in your hand, it looks like copper lace. And it's nice and light and oh-so-comfortable.
Next is a bracelet I decided a little more color. So, I've incorporated seed and lampwork beads in this particular piece of jewelry.
Beaded Viking Knit Bracelet (Click to Enlarge)
I had a whole lot of fun with it. Of course, I had to include some of my own lampwork beads while I was at it. I've gotten lots of compliments on it, how it looks like the seed beads have been woven into a net.
(BTW, I have included instructions for a similar bracelet in my Intro to Viking Knit tutorial.)
OK, what next? Hmmm, time for a necklace perhaps?
This particular necklace uses viking knit as the background, with the wire-wrapped pendant as the focal.
Viking Knit Necklace and Pendant
I have a blast doing these free-form pendants! I've always had a problem with them though; they are substantial in size and need a chain that is equally substantial. And viking knit fits in nicely!
But a viking knit chain doesn't need to be relegated to just the background, not at all!
Although viking knit can be a necklace all by itself, it can be equally intriguing when different gauges and styles of viking knit chain are incorporated in the same piece.
I have a work in progress there I've mixed 24 gauge single knit and 26 gauge double knit -- looks kind of cool so far!
So far I've used copper, artistic wire, brass and also am working in silver. I have some gold-filled wire, but I haven't decided what to do with it yet (seeing as it's so very expensive these days). I'm sure sooner or later an idea will come to me and I'll dig into my stash of gold-filled.
Viking Knit Bracelet -- Flight of the Bumblebee
Here's something that I call "Flight of the Bumblebee" which turned out very interesting indeed! You see, when I grabbed my wire, both the brass and the black wire were supposed to be 26 gauge. That being the case, I figured I'd do some double-knit.
Well, if the brass was 26 gauge, I'll buy and eat a hat! So my brass portions are thicker than the black (which really was 26 gauge). At any rate, it's a cool look and it feels really neat!
In fact, I may dig into my small stash of gold-filled wire and do a mix of it with sterling silver. Hmmmm......
That's it for the moment; more later!
Finishing Viking Knit Chain
Finishing viking knit chain, to turn it into a necklace or bracelet, can be daunting at first. You have this beautiful chain you've carefully knitted and sent through the drawplate...but what do you do next?
(Don't forget, I have posts on directions for viking knit, using a draw plate, choosing wire and the relationship between dowels and petals.) Not to mention my new tutorial Introduction to Viking Knit!
Deciding on Embellishments
First you need to decide if you want any embellishments on your chain. For example, if you have a chain you've drawn down thin, do you want to put Pandora beads on it? Now is the time, before you finish off the ends.
If you want to put on a pendant that is a close fit to the chain, you probably want to put it on (or at least put the bail on) before finishing the ends. There are, however, bails that can fit over the finished ends of the viking knit chain if you'd rather not be tied down to one look.
Of course, you might want no additional embellishments; the chain alone is beautiful, just as it is!
Finishing the Ends
The ends of the viking knit present somewhat of a dilemma. They are rather thick and may look somewhat funky, so you'll need to hide them somehow. But how?
The answer is with an end cap. This could be a purchased cone or one you make yourself; it all depends on the look you're after and the availability of the materials.
For your average viking knit chain, you want an end cap or cone that is at least 6mm in diameter on the large end. It should also be at least 10mm tall.
In the photo, I made my own end caps. It's a little trickier than buying ready-made end caps, but when it comes to artistic wire, it may be your best option.
Making End Caps
You'll need the following to make your own end caps:
- Knitting needle, slightly smaller than the width of your drawn viking knit.
- Wire cutters.
- Round-nose pliers.
- Flat-nose pliers.
- Two pieces of 20 gauge wire; one should be around 10" long, the other around 4" long.
For my double-knit chain made on a 3/8" mandrel and 26g wire, I used a size 10-1/2 knitting needle. You may need a knitting needle larger or smaller, depending on how much you draw it down.
Coiling the Wire (Click to Englarge)
Start by coiling your wire around the knitting needle, keeping the coils as close together as possible. I put some masking tape on my knitting needle, so that the wire wouldn't slide around quite so much.
I make around 10 full coils, which ends up being around 10mm tall.
Once you have all your coils, cut off all but about 1.5" of wire. You'll use this to make the top coil of your end cap.
Making the Top Coil (Click to Enlarge)
Take a round-nose plier and curl just the tip of the extended wire. Make a small closed loop for the best fit.
Make a spiral out of the wire, slowly and carefully. I taped up the jaws of my flat-nose pliers so that I would not scratch the surface of the artistic wire, as the coating can come off if you get too rowdy.
Spiral Over the Coil
As you get close to the main coil, gently ease the spiral over the main coil. Try to keep the small closed loop as close to the center of the coil as possible, but a little off-center won't be too visible in the end result.
Finishing the chain gets a bit easier from here on!
Take a piece of wire around 4" long and make a little bend at one end, so that it kind of looks like a fish hook.
Threading the finishing wire through the end cap.
Using the long end of the wire, slide it through the top few loops of the chain. Pull the chain so that it ends up snagged in the "fish hook" end.
Take your end cap and thread it into place over the long end of the wire. Snug it down as much as you can. Then, you'll need to make a wrapped loop to hold the wire in place.
And see that little straight piece of wire towards the bottom? You can take it an gently curve it around (I use a fine pair of flat-nose pliers) and place the end into the viking knit wire.
This serves two purposes; you hide the end of the wire in the body of the viking knit, as well as snag it into the chain for stability.
So that's finishing the ends of the viking knit chain. What's up next? Why some examples of viking knit jewelry, of course, so stay tuned!
Want even more in-depth information on viking knit? Check out my new viking knit chain tutorial called Introduction to Viking Knit.
Meanwhile, if you don't have anywhere near you that sells artistic or copper wire in the gauges you need, here are some ideas from ebay.
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US $6.29
