Posts Tagged ‘viking knit chain’
Viking Knit Chain – Dowels and Petals
The next bit of info on viking knit chain will be on using what size dowel and number of petals to use for your jewelry project. It might be a little confusing at first, but it will start to make sense in a bit.
In case you haven't seen them yet, you may want to take a look at the three viking knit posts I've made so far:
Now on to dowels and petals, and how you select based on your wire gauge and desired look for your project.
What are Dowels?
Viking Knit Dowels, Metal and Wood (Click to Enlarge)
Dowels, when it comes to viking knit at least, are the mandrels you use to stabilize your work. Dowels can be wood or metal, and can be round or hexagonal (like an allen wrench). Sizes can be from 5/32" up through 1". The most common sizes I've seen used are between 3/16" and 1/2".
Wooden dowels, in a variety of diameters, are readily available in your local Michael's Hobby Lobby, Jo-Ann, etc. I went to get another few yesterday, and they ranged from $.59 to $.99 each. Considering they are 3 feel long, I can saw them into 9" pieces and have 4 from each rod. (You'll understand why I like plenty of dowels later in this post.)
Some viking knit instructions have you using an allen wrench, some a wooden dowel. Both have advantages and disadvantages, so I'd suggest you try both ways and then choose the method that works best for you. The chain looks the same either way.
What are Petals?
Wire Petals, Off and On the Dowel (Click to Enlarge)
Once you have your dowel, it's time to decide how many petals you want to use. But first...what the heck are petals?
For viking knit, petals are what start your first row of the chain. They aren't supposed to look good, and in fact look kind of funky. The only thing important is that the bottoms of the petals are even. You'll eventually discard the inital petals, but they are handy for something to hang onto while you are pulling the chain through the drawplate.
The number of petals is part of what determines the thickness of your viking knit chain, and its eventual look.
Dowels, Petals, Wire and Viking Knit Chain
It all comes together here, the combination of dowel diameter, number of petals and gauge of the wire.
Here's the general rule: the smaller the gauge of wire, the more petals. The larger the diameter of the mandrel, the more petals. Now obviously you can break these rules -- what's the fun if you can't experiment? But if you're just starting out learning, you might want to try a 1/4" mandrel with 5 petals and 24 gauge wire. This will give you a nice chain that can work in a variety of jewelry styles.
Once you've got the hang of the viking knit chain, branch out and try different numbers of petals. Different size mandrels. Different gauges of wires. Build your chain library with 3" lengths of the various combinations and remember to label the chain with all the information!
A Tip for Starting a Chain
I hate starting chains; I spend the first couple of inches just getting it all even and looking right. Then I got an idea; it works for me and I hope it works for you, too.
I have a variety of mandrels/dowels, in different sizes and number of petals. I may have three dowels the same diameter, but one might have 4 petals, another 5 petals and yet another 6 or 7 petals. (Now you understand why I like plenty of dowels.)
When I make a chain, I make an extra inch or so and leave that extra on the dowel. That way when I'm ready to work on that particuar size and number of petals again, I already have something ready. No need to spend the time getting another chain started; it's waiting for me.
Especially when I am working with silver or gold-filled wire, I like using copper wire for that last inch because it gives me something to hang onto when using the drawplate. The end I use to hang onto tends to get a bit mangled, and I'd just as soon that mangled bit be a less expensive wire!
So there you have the basics of viking knit. I'll cover finishing your viking knit chain next time....not to mention some finshed viking knit jewelry!
Viking Knit Jewelry Part 2 – Draw Plate
Welcome back to part 2 of my series on creating viking knit jewelry. In the last post you saw the YouTube video that I used to start learning the process. Today I'll talk about the draw plate.
Just as a background, I tried viking knit for the first time about 3 years ago. Tried and failed. Then I thought I'd give it another go around a year ago. Still no joy. But for whatever reason, when I tried it again a little while ago -- success! I like to think that this time it was looking at a combination of three different ways of actually doing the knit.
Viking Knit Instructions
I mentioned that there was a viking knit instructions YouTube video in my last post on creating viking knit jewelry. It got me started, but I still needed some help in understanding it.
I ended up purchasing (for $10) a .pdf tutorial on viking knit instructions from Jan Raven. That tutorial was the missing piece of the puzzle for me.
Then once I had shown some of my viking knit work, I had others asking me to write a viking knit instructions tutorial of my own! I was certainly honored, and so I now have a viking knit tutorial available.
Now on to one of your most important tools -- the draw plate.
What is a Draw Plate?
Draw Plate for Viking Knit (Click to Enlarge)
The one thing that you need to know is that what your viking knit looks like coming off the dowel or allen wrench is not what it will ultimately look like. And to help you get there from here, you need a draw plate.
A draw plate is basically a piece of wood that has holes of various diameters drilled into it. Once you've got your work to the length you need, take it off the dowel/wrench. Then you can start drawing your chain through the holes, and it will condense your chain, smooth out the work and generally make the viking knit look more finished.
First Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Where to get a draw plate? I originally got mine at a bead shop several years ago; if you have a bead shop nearby, try there. I've not been able to find a good source online, however. But there is a quick and inexpensive way to get a draw plate if you (or someone you know) has a drill and a good selection of drill bits.
Something you need to know: do not get a jeweler's draw plate, which is made of metal. The holes in a jeweler's draw plate are way too small for using with viking knit.
Second Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
You can usually find a viking knit draw plate available in my store for $11 (which also includes dowels).
How Long to Make Your Chain?
Fourth Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Another thing you need to know is that the act of pulling the viking knit chain through the draw plate not only makes the chain thinner, but also longer. How much longer depends on the gauge of wire, size of the dowel, number of "petals" and if you are doing a single knit or a double knit. Oh, and also how thin you choose to draw your viking knit chain!
The chain you see me making is 24 gauge copper wire, on a 1/4" metal dowel, with 5 "petals" in a single knit. I make my chain roughly 2/3 of the final length I want; the extra 1/3 of the length comes in the drawing down process.
When I started, I created a few sample chains of various gauges and number of petals. I tagged the chains with the following information:
- Wire gauge and type (copper, silver, artistic, etc.)
- Number of petals
- Size of dowel
- Length before drawing through the draw plate
- Length after drawing through the draw plate, and the smallest size hole used.
- Knit type (single or double)
Viking Knit Before and After Draw Plate (Click to Enlarge)
This gives me a small "library" of chains, so I can select my look ahead of time and be sure of the outcome.
I highly recommend creating your own little "library" in the beginning. You'll be practicing your technique, gaining skill before you start on your first real viking knit jewelry project. My sample chains are usually around 3" before drawing through the draw plate.
Whew! Hopefully you have enough information on draw plates for viking knit to know why it is an important tool. And that you know what you're looking for when buying one ready-made, or how to make one of your own.
The next post will be on argueably the most important part of making your viking knit chain -- the wire you will use.
Viking Knit Jewelry
Viking knit jewelry is really cool. And up to a few days ago, it totally baffled me. Then two things happened; I found a YouTube video and I bought a tutorial. Between the two, I can now do viking knit! And is it ever addicting...
Directions for Viking Knit Chain
The best video I found out on YouTube certainly helped a great deal; for you, it may be all you need! So below are the video directions for viking knit chain. And then below the video is more information and photos of what viking knit looks like from the raw chain through the finished viking knit jewelry.
So YouTube first, then after you're done watching, check out my "before" photos. Here you go!
Need more? Check out my new Introduction to Viking Knit chain tutorial!
Viking Knit Jewelry - Before
Viking Knit Wire Supplies
OK, first know that the viking knit, as it comes off the wrench or dowel, looks kinda sad (at least to me). It definitely does not resemble the gorgeous jewelry I've seen! But there's a little magic involved that takes maybe a minute and results in a lovely chain.
But first, here's what you need to start out:
- 24 gauge wire
- 18 gauge wire
- Dowel (I use 3/16"). Some people use an allen wrench instead.
- Wire cutters
- Pliers (round nose and bent nose)
- Drawplate
While I don't use it, some people also use a T-pin to create a small path for the wire if the tension gets a little too tight.
In the first photo you see dowels, work in progress and the wire (I also have 16 g wire in the photo, although I didn't use it).
Viking Knit Other Supplies (Pliers, Drawplate, etc.)
In the next photo you can see the wire before I used the drawplate...along with the drawplate and pliers. I added the ruler so you can get an idea of how long the wire was (roughly 15 inches).
The raw knit is reminiscent of wire crochet (well, that's what it looks like to me, anyway).
The viking knit stitch I use is called single knit. Many people prefer to use the variation called double knit, as it makes a more dense weave.
Well, the next post will be more photos taken along the way while creating the jewelry; specifically about the draw plate tool.
Meanwhile, I'll leave you with some Pandora beads, since I will be using them in the finished viking knit jewelry.
US $12.99
