Posts Tagged ‘wire jewelry’
Viking Knit Jewelry Part 2 – Draw Plate
Welcome back to part 2 of my series on creating viking knit jewelry. In the last post you saw the YouTube video that I used to start learning the process. Today I'll talk about the draw plate.
Just as a background, I tried viking knit for the first time about 3 years ago. Tried and failed. Then I thought I'd give it another go around a year ago. Still no joy. But for whatever reason, when I tried it again a little while ago -- success! I like to think that this time it was looking at a combination of three different ways of actually doing the knit.
Viking Knit Instructions
I mentioned that there was a viking knit instructions YouTube video in my last post on creating viking knit jewelry. It got me started, but I still needed some help in understanding it.
I ended up purchasing (for $10) a .pdf tutorial on viking knit instructions from Jan Raven. That tutorial was the missing piece of the puzzle for me.
Then once I had shown some of my viking knit work, I had others asking me to write a viking knit instructions tutorial of my own! I was certainly honored, and so I now have a viking knit tutorial available.
Now on to one of your most important tools -- the draw plate.
What is a Draw Plate?
Draw Plate for Viking Knit (Click to Enlarge)
The one thing that you need to know is that what your viking knit looks like coming off the dowel or allen wrench is not what it will ultimately look like. And to help you get there from here, you need a draw plate.
A draw plate is basically a piece of wood that has holes of various diameters drilled into it. Once you've got your work to the length you need, take it off the dowel/wrench. Then you can start drawing your chain through the holes, and it will condense your chain, smooth out the work and generally make the viking knit look more finished.
First Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Where to get a draw plate? I originally got mine at a bead shop several years ago; if you have a bead shop nearby, try there. I've not been able to find a good source online, however. But there is a quick and inexpensive way to get a draw plate if you (or someone you know) has a drill and a good selection of drill bits.
Something you need to know: do not get a jeweler's draw plate, which is made of metal. The holes in a jeweler's draw plate are way too small for using with viking knit.
Second Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
You can usually find a viking knit draw plate available in my store for $11 (which also includes dowels).
How Long to Make Your Chain?
Fourth Draw Plate Pull (Click to Enlarge)
Another thing you need to know is that the act of pulling the viking knit chain through the draw plate not only makes the chain thinner, but also longer. How much longer depends on the gauge of wire, size of the dowel, number of "petals" and if you are doing a single knit or a double knit. Oh, and also how thin you choose to draw your viking knit chain!
The chain you see me making is 24 gauge copper wire, on a 1/4" metal dowel, with 5 "petals" in a single knit. I make my chain roughly 2/3 of the final length I want; the extra 1/3 of the length comes in the drawing down process.
When I started, I created a few sample chains of various gauges and number of petals. I tagged the chains with the following information:
- Wire gauge and type (copper, silver, artistic, etc.)
- Number of petals
- Size of dowel
- Length before drawing through the draw plate
- Length after drawing through the draw plate, and the smallest size hole used.
- Knit type (single or double)
Viking Knit Before and After Draw Plate (Click to Enlarge)
This gives me a small "library" of chains, so I can select my look ahead of time and be sure of the outcome.
I highly recommend creating your own little "library" in the beginning. You'll be practicing your technique, gaining skill before you start on your first real viking knit jewelry project. My sample chains are usually around 3" before drawing through the draw plate.
Whew! Hopefully you have enough information on draw plates for viking knit to know why it is an important tool. And that you know what you're looking for when buying one ready-made, or how to make one of your own.
The next post will be on argueably the most important part of making your viking knit chain -- the wire you will use.
Viking Knit Jewelry
Viking knit jewelry is really cool. And up to a few days ago, it totally baffled me. Then two things happened; I found a YouTube video and I bought a tutorial. Between the two, I can now do viking knit! And is it ever addicting...
Directions for Viking Knit Chain
The best video I found out on YouTube certainly helped a great deal; for you, it may be all you need! So below are the video directions for viking knit chain. And then below the video is more information and photos of what viking knit looks like from the raw chain through the finished viking knit jewelry.
So YouTube first, then after you're done watching, check out my "before" photos. Here you go!
Need more? Check out my new Introduction to Viking Knit chain tutorial!
Viking Knit Jewelry - Before
Viking Knit Wire Supplies
OK, first know that the viking knit, as it comes off the wrench or dowel, looks kinda sad (at least to me). It definitely does not resemble the gorgeous jewelry I've seen! But there's a little magic involved that takes maybe a minute and results in a lovely chain.
But first, here's what you need to start out:
- 24 gauge wire
- 18 gauge wire
- Dowel (I use 3/16"). Some people use an allen wrench instead.
- Wire cutters
- Pliers (round nose and bent nose)
- Drawplate
While I don't use it, some people also use a T-pin to create a small path for the wire if the tension gets a little too tight.
In the first photo you see dowels, work in progress and the wire (I also have 16 g wire in the photo, although I didn't use it).
Viking Knit Other Supplies (Pliers, Drawplate, etc.)
In the next photo you can see the wire before I used the drawplate...along with the drawplate and pliers. I added the ruler so you can get an idea of how long the wire was (roughly 15 inches).
The raw knit is reminiscent of wire crochet (well, that's what it looks like to me, anyway).
The viking knit stitch I use is called single knit. Many people prefer to use the variation called double knit, as it makes a more dense weave.
Well, the next post will be more photos taken along the way while creating the jewelry; specifically about the draw plate tool.
Meanwhile, I'll leave you with some Pandora beads, since I will be using them in the finished viking knit jewelry.
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 Purple Playthings Big Hole Glass Bead Set Pandora Troll HollysFolly sra lampwork  US $12.99
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Sterling Silver Pendants With Pearls
"From the Deep" Sterling Silver Pendant With Pearls
These sterling silver pendants with pearls came about from a forum. I'm a member of quite a few forums, and in one (I'm ashamed to admit I forget which one), I was introduced to the work of Eni Oken. Eni is a jewelry maker after my own heart, producing one-of-a-kind work in a semi-organic style (well, some of it anyway).
I got some of Eni's tutorials for her intermediate and advanced work, but the projects (bracelets mostly) take such a long time, I eventually abandoned them for faster work -- like with pendants.
I'm not the world's best photographer I'm afraid, and this pendant is a little over on its side instead of flat on the background. (I can tell because of the way the top loop is facing). All I can say in my defense is that my camera's batteries were almost dead and I need to buy some more -- so I tool the pictures quickly!
OK, how I did this is pretty easy. I took a piece of 16g sterling silver wire and roughly 2.5 inches long put the loop on top. Instead of wrapping the loop in the normal manner, I added side loops for decoration. I left about 1.75 inches hanging down. I added a small loop at the bottom for a "stopper".
"Blue Lagoon" Sterling and Pearl Pendant
Next, I took 28g sterling wire and wrapped the length of the straight wire, making sure the wraps were close. I start at the bottom and work my way up.Once I was just about to the top, I ended that piece of wire and cut another piece. and finished the wrapping.
Now I just strung pearls, sterling silver and shell beads in whatever pattern I felt like. I'd usually string. After each 3 to 7 beads (depending on the size, I'd anchor the beads to the main 16g wrapped length.
I covered the front of the pendant (and part of the back) in whatever pattern I chose, always making sure to keep my wraps as neat as possible.
Here's the other one I made at the same sitting. It has pearls, abalone, sterling and shell beads. The pendants don't take long to make, once the main length is wrapped -- maybe 30 or 40 minutes, with most of that time trying to decide which beads to use next!
Once again, my lack of photography skills has me laying the pendant slightly to the right instead of straight on. Ah well, hopefully you get the idea of how they look.
